What are the reasons that Joel listed "manual transmission" as a criterion for a car? Is it simply because auto transmission is more difficult to service? Or is it because of certain operational advantages with manuals?
I can give you two reasons:
1) In many cases, a manual transmission gives better gas mileage.
2) Better traction and control for driving off-road or on unimproved roads.
The advantages of manual transmissions are for one, most will outlast the vehicle, especially in trucks, second , almost anyone can replace a clutch, and the cost of a clutch replacement is far ,FAR less than the cost of an automatic trans.
I would add to the advantages already posted that at least once every year or so, I end up with a battery problem and love the fact that with a manual transmission I can "pop the clutch" and start the car by pushing it or rolling it down a slight incline. I also live in mountainous country and love a 5-speed manual that offers a lot more gearing options for driving on steep mountain roads. Automatics are rarely in the right RPM range on steep hills.
Joel
Now, how do I convince my wife that she should give up the full-size van that she loves for a stick shift 4x4 Suburban?
You can tell her that her legs will be pretty from the exercise?
I might also suggest that your vehicle be not only a manual transmission, (Hi Joel) but also diesel powered. Not only is that part of the vehicle much more reliable, the fuel consumption is about 1/2 that of the same vehicle powered by gasoline. The amount of power is far greater per cubic inch than gasoline. My 360CID Cummins 6BT engine has been brough up to the standart motorhome spec (don't try this with an automatic transmission). This is 275 HP and about 730 ft lbs of torque. The stock number is something like 235HP and 505 ft lbs torque.
If you are going to bug out (hopefully early on) with a trailer load of supplies, this will get you over the mountain.
We have a diesel VW Jetta, VW Golf and a Dodge/Cummins 3500. My Jetta typically gets in the low 50's on my daily commute of 24 miles, 70% hwy, 30% city. On one trip I got 61.3 and have heard a Canadian fellow getting 68 (Must've been better than 50 cetane fuel) MPG. The standard published range of the Jetta is 750 miles on its 15 gal tank. By simply carrying a single 5 gallon can of extra fuel, your range is extended up to about 250 miles.
The 1 ton Dodge dualie, 5 speed, 3:54 rear gets about 22.5 unloaded on the hwy. When we hook up our dual axle, 24' gooseneck horsetrailer, loaded with 2 houses, tack and their feed for 3 days, I get between 16 and 17 on the hwy.
Add to that, if you are lucky to have a diesel generator, fuel and lubricating oil standardization are possible.
Unlike gasoline, diesel fuel can be stored for about 8 years if on a regular treatment program with a biostat and possibly longer with fuel stabilizer.
Also, if you are traveling the countryside and run low on fuel, you might be able to buy #2 heating oil from a friendly home owner. They are essentially the exact same save that the heating oil is most likely high sulpur (which is fine as far as the engine is concerned) and dyed red.
The dye designates the fuel as being for off road use and therefore, untaxed. Were you to find yourself in a situation as in the paragraph outlined above, I doubt anyone will care....
I have been pricing army surplus vehicles for a friend of mine....I am considering getting a deuce and a half for myself! where else am I going to find a vehicle that can haul that much for that price? besides we off road a lot and camp in some strange places...they are diesel...(mind my purchase of such will be sometime in the next 2 years or so...) doesn't hurt to case stuff out now ! parts seem pretty cheap and easy to come by for these babies . i think i'd be able to fix whatever might befall it.(though I would darn near KILL for a crew cab pickup...! *S* diesel stickshift of course! )
A good idea but I don't know that I would go the duce and a half route. My cousin who's father had a Mack Truck franchise bought one to restore. The government doesn't get rid of something like that until its quite worn out.
It turned out to be very maintenance intensive.
most engine based equipment such as generators or vehicles are very worn out. Surplus? Its better to stick to the simple things, like razor wire, shovels, picks, ammo cans, that kind of stuff.
Back in the 70s and 80s you could get some good deals, but now after all the cutbacks and drastic de-funding, any capital equipment our military has is going to be even more used up until they get rid of it.
I drove a duece and a half at Camp Pendleton, a brand new one back in 1987, they were $110,000 a copy back then new (govt. price). But they are very powerful and impressive vehicles. They can go through some amazing terrain.
thank you...I will keep my eyes open then for something a bit more realistic..
I appreciate everyone's input!
Peace!
what vehicles would best survive the emp of a nuke?
Although I am not all that sure about the power and effects of an EMP (most of the books seem to only theorize about it), I can say from my years as an auto mechanic that you would want a vehicle with a very simple ignition system. That means anything pre 1975 (American made) would be best.
You want something with the lower voltage secondary ignition 20,000 volts instead of 40K. Usually, you can regognize these by the small diameter distributor cap and small diameter wires. Inside the distributor cap you will find the mechanical contact points that were the standard for so many years. You should have a supply of new ignition parts as they needed to be replaced about every 30K miles.
And you don't really want to mess with cars that have the computer controlled ignition module. Most Fords mounted them on the fender well. However, as Joel points out in his books, you can easily get a spare module at the junk yard (50 to 75 bucks) and store it in an old ammo can on the garage floor. But then you have to take the time to swap them out if you find an EMP has knocked out the one in your car.
Chrysler/Plymouth/Dodge was ahead of its time with computer controlled ignition systems in the early 70's so stay away from those. They didn't work that well anyway. My ideal vehicle would be an old Chevy Blazer or GMC Jimmy or even the Chevy or GMC truck of the same time frame. Many of the body parts and system were interchangeable. You want the standard small block chevy engine 283, 327, 302, or 350 v8's because parts are still easy to come by.
I currently own a 1976 Blazer, which, unfortunately, does have the HEI (High Energy Ignition) system and computer controlled module. But I also have the regular old distributor and coil that I can swap. Of course that would take some time and you'd have to be mechanically inclined (as you should be). But the Blazers were so easy to work on and they are very dependable. Mine will start on a cold day when my Audi has trouble.